This years annual AMC alpine climbing trip to Chamonix, was met for the most part with good weather and snowy conditions! This years trip was compromised 6 enthusiastic climbers: Ethan,Jake,Justin,Adam - left to right pictured, plus Fernando and Rich. We made our basecamp for the week at the fantastic Argentiere campsite, which is 10 minute (free!) bus ride outside of Chamonix central.
Day 1
For the first three days we were a split group, with Ethan undertaking the Jonathan Conville Memorial Trust's Alpine Mountaineering Course, this is was an absolutely fantastic course for those aged 18-30 who may have some experience of say Scottish Winter climbing, but are hoping to transition their skills to the big mountains! The course is subsidised by the trust making it as accessible as possible. I really would recommend it to anyone young thinking of getting into Alpine climbing or into Scottish winter, as they run various different courses throughout the year. Anyhow, while Ethan was learning how to haul people out of crevasses, the other 5 thought it wise to 'warm up' on Petits Charmoz Traverse AD 4c, only to find this is a classic sandbagged route, leading to a memorable first day being beasted by ungraded pitches...
Day 2
I think it's safe to say day 2 was better all round, Ethan bagged his first ever alpine route Traversée des Crochues PD+ 4a, which was a great day out, dodging mammoth cornices and dialing into the alpine way with unforgivingly fast moving guides... Meanwhile the others were actually warming up properly on Pointes Lachenal Traverse AD 2, which sounded like a much better early week route!
Day 3
Day 3 had something exciting in store for all, as we separately travelled over to the Italian side of the range to bag a route and to link up to stay a night in the Torino Reffuge ready for an alpine start on day 4. Adam, Jake and Justin climbed Aiguilles Marbrées Traverse AD 4b (South to North) which we later learnt was the 'incorrect' way of climbing the route, as the updated guidebook says to climb it North to South, which was the way Ethan and his course climbed it on the same day, crossing paths with the AMC team circa middway :).
Meanwhile, Rich and Fernando were having a long day out climbing the East Ridge of the Pyramid du Tacul AD+ 5a, they most definitely clocked the trip award for longest day out on route!
Day 4
After their epic on day 3, we safely assumed Rich and Fernando would not be joining us for an alpine start, so we left them at the hut dreaming of sheep. Meanwhile, we were out the door in the glorious morning light, setting our sights on Aiguille d'Entrèves Traverse AD- 4c, a really great route, with the right level of exposure, views and picture taking opportunities!
Fernando and Rich set their sights on a closer objective, climbing the Northwest Face of the Aiguille du Toule AD 2 and getting some great selfies in the process. Then it was back down and over to Chamonix for a few days of rest with bad weather on the horizon.
Day 5
Rest day 1, shopping in Chamonix and for some, the tourist activity of getting the cute red Mer de Glace train to have a look inside the glacier!
Day 6
Rest day 2, shopping plus Suana! Today we treated ourselves to a ticket to the local swimming pool, where we rested up in the various different suanas and may or may not have also each taken a ride down the slide... Rich and Fernando decided the weather forecast wasn't quite for them so both decided to begin the journey back to their respected homes.
Day 7
It seems the guys made the correct decision to leave, as due to delays in the opening of the Midi lift, it seems every single alpinist had the same idea to climb the Arete des Cosmiques AD 3, which resulted in a queue not unlike what we have seen on Everest in recent years! With some pretty grim looking weather on its way, we decided today wasn't the day and bailed.
Silver linings - We did bail to our new favourite little micro brewery in Chamonix and had some final beers to toast the week!
All in all, an amazing week out in the alpine playground, surrounded by the stunning sights of the Mont Blanc massif, testing ourselves upon the varied terrain. Thank you to all of those who came, it was wonderful to get to know each other better, climb together, but mostly to have some beers and simply spend time together. Here's to doing it all again next year!
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