Cornwall 2024

AMC Cornwall Trip; climbing, raining, dancing and rescuing…but more on that story later..

The weather forecast was changeable but once again the AMC members were not deterred. We were staying once again at the lovely St Just Rugby club campsite which has great facilities, cheap bar prices and friendly locals. Despite the forecast all managed to climb every day and some classic three star routes were ticked off by different members of the club. A very successful trip and one to remember…if only for the shapes on the dance floor.

A few went down early on Friday to make the most of the better weather as Saturday had some dark clouds predicted. Ethan, Will and Malcolm headed off to the magical Sennen Cove and ticked off Donna (HS,4b) and Hayloft (VC, 4c). Paul and Andrew stopped off at The Dewerstone for a classic tick of Central Groove (HS) and Andrew's first voyage into a multi pitch trad route. Greg and Anthony ticked off two three star VS classics in Little Brown Jugs (5a) and Right Angle (4c). Jamie and Lisa also made the most of the Friday with a tick of the impressive Bosi Ridge and then a route called Clob. Those who arrived late and in the dark were treated to the tales of the adventures that they had had in the glorious sunshine that day. Then we all poured over the guidebooks and looked for the best forecast possible for Saturday.

Even with grey clouds Saturday turned out to be a mammoth day of climbing between the showers. Some favoured more single pitch venues (Sennen, Carn Barra) in case of down pours while others more foolishly went for some classic multi pitches. Max, Liv, Andrew (South Face Direct VS 4c) Greg, Anthony (Pegasus, HS 4b - which Greg made much harder work of it by wandering onto an E2, he thinks) and Connor and Dylan (Pendulum Chimney, S) went for adventurous routes at Chair Ladder. The rain was heavy at times and Greg and Anthony had to bail off South West Direct up the VDiff of the abseil line at the end of the day due to rain, but it seems they enjoyed this even more! Joe and Kate did Right Angle, topping out just as it started raining. There were rumours that Kate had stitched Joe up for the down climb with little protection, but we were assured by Kate this was all lies. Joe did get a splash from a rogue wave for his troubles though. They then did a very wet ascent of Bosi Ridge (waterproofs were mandatory). Whilst all this was going on Kevser and Rich had sensibly opted for Sennen, where Rich led the routes of The Arete, Civvy Route and the iconic Bannan Flake. Paul and Akkash went for it and did the wild line at Zawn Kelly of American Dream (E1 5b) with lots of seals watching. They then headed off to Lands End to attempt Worlds End, but got rained off and went up Procyon (VS) instead. With tourists, not seals, enjoying Paul and Akassh’s adventures in the damp. Will, Andy, Malcolm and Ethan headed to Can Barra to do Hopeless (VD), Edge Climb and then a right of passage at Sennen to do Demo Route (but due to the rain they had to bail off to the right and didn't manage to tackle the nose part). Lauren and Andy also managed to do a VDiff at Carn Barra (a glorious little cliff if you don't know it), but it was spoiled a bit by a face full of guano for Lauren and a pulled shoulder. Luckily she could retire to the pub with an ice pack and Noble for company. Lisa and Jamie also opted for Carn Barra and did Marisco Striptease and then snuck on Porthgwarra Face. Needless to say this was a busy day despite the conditions with lots of routes ticked. We all at various points filtered into the Rugby club bar where they had laid on a spread for the rugby match on the big screen. We entered into the spirit and demolished the spread and had a few Guinness and games of pool. We don't need to focus on who beat who..but it was a fantastic day and the weather was looking up for Sunday!

Sunday saw some aching blurry eyed climbers awake to a glorious combination of some sunshine and the every present sound of peacocks mewing. The weather suggested a wet start (light drizzle) with improving conditions so the mighty cliff of Bosigran seemed to be the club's best option for the day. Adam, Will and Ethan completed Commando ridge in Alpine style to prepare for Chamonix in an impressive 2.5hrs. Lisa and Jamie ticked off Vision of Johanna (to add to Lisa’s ticking of all routes named after Bob Dylan songs) and it was Lisa’s hardest route so far since her injury (go Lisa). Will and Ethan after the ridge, did an HVD at the main cliff called Ledge Route. Paul and Akaash tackled the intimidating Suicide Wall (E1 5b) with a bit of rain and gear pulling at the crux pitch and then Zig Zag after this. Impressive leads from Paul all the same. Joe and Kate ticked off Autumn Flakes and Doorway (both VS). Greg and Anthony got on Paragon (HVS) and Nameless (VS 4c). Paragon was Greg’s first HVS lead - well done to him. Dylan and Noble did Nameless and Andrews Route (S). Max, Liv and Andrew; did Andrew’s route..because..well you can guess. Then we did Doorpost (HS) which was a fantastic route. Max and Jamie then lead Bow Wall (E2) which was epic - both pitches are interesting to say the least! Rich and Kev opted for South West Direct at Chair Ladder as it is a Classic Rock tick to add to your bow. While all this was going on Malcolm, Andy and Lauren had opted to tackle the Commando Ridge as a three. It sounded a bit of an ordeal with 3 pitches completed in 5 hours after an intense rain shower on the abseil and scramble, and then being hit by a large wave on pitch 1. Lauren then heard her knee pop and was in some difficulty. The three valiantly got Lauren to a ledge on the left of the ridge and Adam rightly called mountain rescue. Lauren was then treated to a helicopter rescue off the ridge. Luckily she wasn't too badly injured and was ok to head to the minor injuries unit that evening to get herself checked out. After an exciting day the majority of us came back late and all headed to the Chinese takeaway in the local village (it saw some trade over the weekend from the AMC). To top it off the AMC accidentally crashed a 40th Birthday party in the Rugby club and some say we got the party starting again. Who knew all of us knew the words to Katy Perry’s back catalogue. The dance moves were flying off in every direction from various members of the club. This bodes well for the Christmas Party!

Monday some decided to head off due to the deteriorating forecast and work commitments. A few of us stayed on and tried to make the best of it. Anthony and Greg went to Kenidjack and started up Saxon, but had to escape via Gneiss Gnome due to the rain. They did stop at the polished venue of Chudleigh on the way home and Greg led Inkermans Groove. Kevser and Rich got on Nameless but due to a heavy shower bailed off pitch two. Akaash led his first pitch of a VS in the rain on Anvil Chorus, but we bailed off after a particularly heavy shower. He then led a VD after the weather improved - well done to him. Max then led Akaash and Liv up Anvil Chorus in the sunshine whilst Dylan and Noble led Venusberg (after bailing off the first pitch in the intense shower), with Dylan also leading his first VS pitch. The boys who headed to Sennen were rained off so went home. Monday was again a glorious day (despite the poor weather at times) with all in Max’s car having climbed until late in the day and getting back to Bristol at midnight! Phew….

This trip had it all; changeable weather, helicopters, three star classics, adventurous tails, epic dance moves, and a host of new(ish) members came along and made the most of the climbing and the wealth of experience on offer from other members.

I totally f*** with Cornwall (one for those under 30 apparently).